Uzbekistan: Villages of Nuratau
(Hayat and Uxum to Asraf)
Ўзбекистон: села Нуратау
(от Хаята и Ухума до Асрафа)

Visit three of the small villages of Nuratau mountains on this one-day point-to-point hike, exploring a reserve for endangered argali (Sverdlov’s sheep) in Hayat and the cultural landscapes of the villages of Hayat, Uxum, and Asraf.

Total Km: 15km
Total Days: 1
Elevation Gain/Loss: 426m+ / 701m-
Start Point: Hayat Village
End Point: Asraf Village
GPS Files

This easy one-day route presents no real strenuous challenges – rather than an exploration of epic landscapes, this is hiking in Uzbekistan for an exploration of the cultural of the villages of Nuratau and a chance to meet its people one-on-one.

Sverdlov Sheep Enclosure

The first 2.3km of the route – a loop visit to the fenced enclosure for caged Sverdlov’s sheep and to the ruins of old Hayat, could actually be done the day of arrival to Hayat if you have time, which would also offer more of a chance to sit and observe the sheep in their habitat.

From the guesthouse in Hayat, cross the street and cut through the property of the neighbor across the road – not to worry, it belong to the brother of the guesthouse’s owner. Cut alongside the small field they’ve cultivated and then out the gate on the northwest side of the property and continue up the small side valley here until you reach the fenced enclosure – it’s only about .6km total.

Part of the wider Nuratau Nature Reserve, which was founded in 1975 primarily to protect the endangered Sverdlov’s argali and several stands of ancient walnut forests, encompasses around 177 sq km across the Nuratau mountains. Though the heart of the reserve is off-limits, the small enclosure here can be visited by travelers, likely the only chance to see these endangered argali that are though to exist now only in the Nuratau mountains.

Having watched the sheep run around their enclosure, follow a trail over the small ridge to the southwest and drop down on the far side into the ruins of old Hayat. Like most villages in the region,  Hayat originally existed as a small stone village tucked away here in an unprepossessing side valley primarily for safety – most of these villages have existed for centuries, when marauding attackers weren’t unknown. According to locals, they were largely abandoned during either the Imperial period or during Soviet-era collectivisation, and even those who later moved back elected to live at lower elevations in the more modern structures you’ll have passed on the way here. Look out for the arches of the former mosque, and a fortress high on a nearby hilltop, then continue onwards downhill and loop back along the main village road to the guesthouse.

Villages of Nuratau: Hayat to Uxum

Refilling water and collecting your luggage from the guesthouse, head west along the main village road then turn down to the river and bridge and climb up the opposite hillside, giving the first house and their unfriendly dogs a wide berth. Follow the obvious beaten paths to first a 1019m saddle and onwards to a 1032m viewpoint, with excellent views of both Hayat to the north and the village of Uxum to the south.

Continue eastwards until a path drops obviously towards the highest houses in the village – we were passing through on a Friday, and so decided to stop by the local mosque for a visit, but if this isn’t of interest then ignore the section of the GPS trail where we deviate off the main road to the mosque and back.

At any rate, continue downhill through Uxum for a little under four more kilometers, passing en route an old waterwheel (and a modern water spout, where you can fill up bottles if needed) and opposite it a building that worked as a guesthouse pre-COVID – it wasn’t clear if they would be reopening or not when we visited. Continue down the village for looks into rural life here and for a few views of the ruins of Uxum – smaller than many other villages in the region – down to the ‘center’ of Uxum and Hayat. This small clearing with a few stores and a bus stop is where you’ll be let off if you do manage to get here on public transport.

Villages of Nuratau: Uxum to Asraf

About another hundred meters north from the clearing, a dirt road cuts abruptly to the east and circles down to a small bridge. Cross the river and follow this track up the far hillside and into the foothills outside of Uxum. The way onwards to Asraf is approximately 5km further, over attractive desert terrain and with occasional views of Aydar Kol lake to the north from the highest points. The way does involve a little climbing, but it’s nothing strenuous and you should be coming across the first views down to Asraf before you know it.

Assuming you got a fairly early start on the hike today, there should be plenty of daylight left to wander the small village of Asraf. However, if the local guesthouses’ tapchans alongside a small brook are anywhere near as tempting as they were for us, you may never make it much further!

Alternate Options for Villages of Nuratau

It would be theoretically possible to continue from Asraf to the village of Eski Foresh down in the desert plains en route to Aydar Kol lake, but this would make a fairly long hike over unchanging terrain with no cultural elements whatsoever – we were discouraged from adding it to our itinerary.

Good To Know

There are no entrance fees to the Villages of Nuratau hikes and no special equipment necessary – though it can get quite hot and sunny even in late spring so be sure to pack a hat and sunscreen. Water is available from a small streams in the villages, but given the amount of people and livestock in the region you’ll absolutely want to bring a purification system if you plan to rely on this water.

We traveled throughout the region with Ruslan of Nurata Tours, and were happy with the service and prices. Our friend Shivya of The Shooting Star visited the Nuratau region with Responsible Tourism, another local operator, and also reported being pleased with the experience.

Getting to the Villages of Nuratau

Getting to Hayat or Asraf on public transport is time-consuming at best and at worst impossible – most visitors would be best off visiting with a local tour operator to combine the village with others in the Nuratau region.

Where to Stay and Eat

The guesthouses on both ends of this hike are really fantastic – extremely pleasant village settings by a stream and run by overwhelmingly welcoming families. It’s possible to book the Hayat Nuratau Mountain Guesthouse online in advance, though as far as we’re aware the Akshigul Guesthouse in Asraf must be booking in person or through a tour agent. Both offer (excellent) food during your stay, and can often accommodate vegetarians and vegans with advance notice.